FASHION AND COUTURE
1922 THE TRUNK OF THE SADDLER
2014 UNSOLD
PRE SALE DISCUSSION
In the nineteenth century, the horse is essential for travels. Thierry Hermès opened a workshop in Paris in 1837 to make harnesses and bridles and his company later diversified the products to all equestrian luxury accessories useful to wealthy clients.
In the early twentieth century, the company managed by his two grandsons becomes Hermès Frères. The horse is now superseded by the automobile, but one of the two directors, Emile-Maurice Hermès, is an outstanding entrepreneur who knows how to take advantage of such a change that could have been fatal to his company.
Hermès products are based on leather but diversification is wide. In 1918 the Hermès golf jacket is released and includes a zipper which is then exclusive in France to that brand.
By launching his first line of handbags in 1922, Emile-Maurice claims that he was forced to do so by his wife who was not finding elsewhere a suitable bag for her convenience. This fabulous marketing story was reused similarly by Hermès in 1981 to promote the Birkin bag.
On January 22 in London, Christie's sells a 1922 Hermès Frères trunk in brown pigskin. This opulent piece, 120 x 64 x 56 cm, is divided into two vertical parts : a trunk with six drawers and a wardrobe which has retained its original hangers. It is estimated £ 60K. Here is the link to the catalog.
This trunk was used by a young Texan visiting Paris for her honeymoon, who required some luggage to carry back home her haute couture shopping. The need expressed by this client may bave inspired Emile-Maurice who established two years later for the first time a permanent presence of Hermès in the USA.
In the nineteenth century, the horse is essential for travels. Thierry Hermès opened a workshop in Paris in 1837 to make harnesses and bridles and his company later diversified the products to all equestrian luxury accessories useful to wealthy clients.
In the early twentieth century, the company managed by his two grandsons becomes Hermès Frères. The horse is now superseded by the automobile, but one of the two directors, Emile-Maurice Hermès, is an outstanding entrepreneur who knows how to take advantage of such a change that could have been fatal to his company.
Hermès products are based on leather but diversification is wide. In 1918 the Hermès golf jacket is released and includes a zipper which is then exclusive in France to that brand.
By launching his first line of handbags in 1922, Emile-Maurice claims that he was forced to do so by his wife who was not finding elsewhere a suitable bag for her convenience. This fabulous marketing story was reused similarly by Hermès in 1981 to promote the Birkin bag.
On January 22 in London, Christie's sells a 1922 Hermès Frères trunk in brown pigskin. This opulent piece, 120 x 64 x 56 cm, is divided into two vertical parts : a trunk with six drawers and a wardrobe which has retained its original hangers. It is estimated £ 60K. Here is the link to the catalog.
This trunk was used by a young Texan visiting Paris for her honeymoon, who required some luggage to carry back home her haute couture shopping. The need expressed by this client may bave inspired Emile-Maurice who established two years later for the first time a permanent presence of Hermès in the USA.
1930 Lacquered Pens
2015 SOLD for $ 305K including premium
Namiki is a manufacturer of fountain pens near Tokyo. His business, founded in 1918, becomes in 1938 the Pilot Pen company while retaining the brand name Namiki. He is tempted by luxury and realizes gold pens from his beginning.
The great reputation of Namiki pens results from a chemical observation. Ebonite becomes dull in the presence of ink. Namiki leads a team of specialists who suggest in 1925 to use the traditional Japanese lacquer of maki-e type which is sprinkled with gold and silver powder for creating exquisite decorations. The Namiki pen becomes a work of art.
The expansion of the brand is an excellent example of international cooperation. In 1930 Namiki signs a contract with Dunhill so that the British company will sell the Namiki products in major cities worldwide.
Sorabji was an a British composer of Parsi origin. Known for his secret temperament and tendency to a reclusive life, he needs luxury conditions to do its work. He commissioned two fountain pens to Dunhill-Namiki, undated but perhaps at the time of preparation of their contract.
He chose the No. 50 size also named Emperor 16 cm long which is the largest available. One of the pens is decorated with a tiger and the other with a cat in maki-e lacquer realized and signed by two different artists. Nibs are in gold.
This pair of upscale writing instruments is estimated $ 100K for sale by Bonhams in San Francisco on June 16, lot 1126.
The great reputation of Namiki pens results from a chemical observation. Ebonite becomes dull in the presence of ink. Namiki leads a team of specialists who suggest in 1925 to use the traditional Japanese lacquer of maki-e type which is sprinkled with gold and silver powder for creating exquisite decorations. The Namiki pen becomes a work of art.
The expansion of the brand is an excellent example of international cooperation. In 1930 Namiki signs a contract with Dunhill so that the British company will sell the Namiki products in major cities worldwide.
Sorabji was an a British composer of Parsi origin. Known for his secret temperament and tendency to a reclusive life, he needs luxury conditions to do its work. He commissioned two fountain pens to Dunhill-Namiki, undated but perhaps at the time of preparation of their contract.
He chose the No. 50 size also named Emperor 16 cm long which is the largest available. One of the pens is decorated with a tiger and the other with a cat in maki-e lacquer realized and signed by two different artists. Nibs are in gold.
This pair of upscale writing instruments is estimated $ 100K for sale by Bonhams in San Francisco on June 16, lot 1126.
1937 Art and Fashion by Elsa Schiaparelli
2009 SOLD 175 K€ including premium
Between the two world wars, Paris is the capital of fashion. In 1935, an ambitious Italian, Elsa Schiaparelli, installs her couture house place Vendôme. She was able to link with the art circles (and particularly with the Surrealists), and her new designs were an immediate success. Like Chanel, she designed clothes for women, made to be comfortable to wear. She also introduced varied colors, and decorated her finest pieces with artistic embroidery.
Some customers were keen to follow her productions. The sale of Millon Cornette de Saint-Cyr in Paris (Drouot) July 3 includes no fewer than 40 models purchased by the same family to Schiaparelli before 1940.
Among them is a masterpiece, estimated 12 K €. This is a short jacket made of gray linen in the fall of 1937. It is decorated with a figure of a woman from a drawing by Cocteau. The head of the woman is leaning on the shoulder of the jacket, and long blonde hair extends like flames down the right sleeve. On the abdomen, the left hand is holding a metal-blue knot. The embroideries were made by Maison Lesage. Lesage and Cocteau were regularly collaborating with Schiaparelli.
POST SALE COMMENT
This jacket has been paid to the price of an artwork: 175 K € premium included.
I took a small risk when qualifying as a masterpiece a lot which was estimated at 12 K € only. The market has confirmed.
Often in Paris, reading the estimates does not help to anticipate the major results.
Some customers were keen to follow her productions. The sale of Millon Cornette de Saint-Cyr in Paris (Drouot) July 3 includes no fewer than 40 models purchased by the same family to Schiaparelli before 1940.
Among them is a masterpiece, estimated 12 K €. This is a short jacket made of gray linen in the fall of 1937. It is decorated with a figure of a woman from a drawing by Cocteau. The head of the woman is leaning on the shoulder of the jacket, and long blonde hair extends like flames down the right sleeve. On the abdomen, the left hand is holding a metal-blue knot. The embroideries were made by Maison Lesage. Lesage and Cocteau were regularly collaborating with Schiaparelli.
POST SALE COMMENT
This jacket has been paid to the price of an artwork: 175 K € premium included.
I took a small risk when qualifying as a masterpiece a lot which was estimated at 12 K € only. The market has confirmed.
Often in Paris, reading the estimates does not help to anticipate the major results.
1939 THE CELESTIAL COUTURE OF ELSA SCHIAPARELLI
2014 SOLD 31 K€ INCLUDING PREMIUM
PRE SALE DISCUSSION
Haute couture becomes art when it is made by Elsa Schiaparelli. Based in Paris, she was influenced by the Surrealists and influenced them. Her unprecedented decorative themes were ahead of her time and could shock the traditionalists in the 1930s.
The selection of textiles by Schiaparelli was as exquisite as the quality of the wood used by the Art Déco cabinetmakers. She added on her pieces a very fine embroidery executed by Lesage.
The golden age of the Schiaparelli production is the second half of the 1930s. On July 3, 2009, Millon and Cornette de Saint-Cyr sold for € 175K including premium a linen jacket made in 1937 by such a co-operation between Schiaparelli and Lesage from a drawing by Cocteau on the theme of a female figure.
In 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli develops the Zodiac theme, where stars and constellations spreading on the garment enable the best display of the virtuosity of Lesage. The star is related to luck, and its arrival in couture seduced the avant-gardes.
It was also a tribute by the designer to her uncle Giovanni Schiaparelli, an astronomer famous for his peerless description of Martian canals of which it was known much later that they were not a hoax but an optical illusion.
On December 3, 2013, a Zodiac jacket in midnight blue velvet made in 1938 was sold for £ 136K including premium by Kerry Taylor.
On January 23 in Paris, Christie's sells a violet Astrologie silk blouse (chemisier) made in 1939 by Elsa Schiaparelli and embroidered of stars in golden metal, glass and tiny diamonds by Lesage. It had been retained by Elsa's family and is estimated € 25K. Here is the link to the catalog.
POST SALE COMMENT
This piece of couture was sold for € 31K including premium, in line with the estimate.
Haute couture becomes art when it is made by Elsa Schiaparelli. Based in Paris, she was influenced by the Surrealists and influenced them. Her unprecedented decorative themes were ahead of her time and could shock the traditionalists in the 1930s.
The selection of textiles by Schiaparelli was as exquisite as the quality of the wood used by the Art Déco cabinetmakers. She added on her pieces a very fine embroidery executed by Lesage.
The golden age of the Schiaparelli production is the second half of the 1930s. On July 3, 2009, Millon and Cornette de Saint-Cyr sold for € 175K including premium a linen jacket made in 1937 by such a co-operation between Schiaparelli and Lesage from a drawing by Cocteau on the theme of a female figure.
In 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli develops the Zodiac theme, where stars and constellations spreading on the garment enable the best display of the virtuosity of Lesage. The star is related to luck, and its arrival in couture seduced the avant-gardes.
It was also a tribute by the designer to her uncle Giovanni Schiaparelli, an astronomer famous for his peerless description of Martian canals of which it was known much later that they were not a hoax but an optical illusion.
On December 3, 2013, a Zodiac jacket in midnight blue velvet made in 1938 was sold for £ 136K including premium by Kerry Taylor.
On January 23 in Paris, Christie's sells a violet Astrologie silk blouse (chemisier) made in 1939 by Elsa Schiaparelli and embroidered of stars in golden metal, glass and tiny diamonds by Lesage. It had been retained by Elsa's family and is estimated € 25K. Here is the link to the catalog.
POST SALE COMMENT
This piece of couture was sold for € 31K including premium, in line with the estimate.
1953 Satin Gown is a Girl's Best Friend
2010 SOLD 356 K$ including premium
"Gentlemen Prefer Blondes", the musical, enjoyed success on Broadway with 740 performances from 1949 to 1952. The main role was then taken by Carol Channing. The performance art is ephemeral, but fortunately Howard Hawks made a movie in 1953.
Thus were recorded and immortalized the images of Marilyn Monroe singing "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend" with a very fun staging.
How many millions of spectators so admired the young actress in her pink satin gown tightly worn on her curves?
The gown of this scene is now for sale at auction by Profiles in History in Calabasas Hills, near Hollywood, on June 11. It was signed Travilla, the favorite costume designer of Marilyn. The estimation starts at $ 150K. The auction house, however, does not miss to remember that the dress worn by Marilyn on a birthday of President Kennedy was sold $ 1.27 million in 1999.
Here is the link to the catalog page shared by the online auction platform LiveAuctioneers.
POST SALE COMMENT
The dress of Marilyn Monroe doubled its lower estimate: it was sold $ 310K before fees.
Thus were recorded and immortalized the images of Marilyn Monroe singing "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend" with a very fun staging.
How many millions of spectators so admired the young actress in her pink satin gown tightly worn on her curves?
The gown of this scene is now for sale at auction by Profiles in History in Calabasas Hills, near Hollywood, on June 11. It was signed Travilla, the favorite costume designer of Marilyn. The estimation starts at $ 150K. The auction house, however, does not miss to remember that the dress worn by Marilyn on a birthday of President Kennedy was sold $ 1.27 million in 1999.
Here is the link to the catalog page shared by the online auction platform LiveAuctioneers.
POST SALE COMMENT
The dress of Marilyn Monroe doubled its lower estimate: it was sold $ 310K before fees.
1958 marilyn, the sixth enchantress
2014 unsold
For its last issue of 1958, Life magazine plans to publish pictures where top enchantresses from stage and film will be played by a modern actress. Richard Avedon takes the job. In front of his camera, Marilyn Monroe will play the five roles with the active complicity of her husband, Arthur Miller, who is preparing a text.
These five seductresses deserve to be listed because they represent the history of the femme fatale: Lillian Russell, Theda Bara, Clara Bow, Jean Harlow and Marlene Dietrich. In 1917, the risque role of Theda Bara as Cleopatra in a soon censored and now lost movie had inflamed the minds of the early moviegoers. She was nicknamed the Vamp, a word taken from Vampyr which soon became widely used to refer to the sex bombs of the cinema.
Marilyn had fun on this project. It was not easy for a young modern woman to reincarnate Theda Bara forty years after her glory but the harem costume was enough to bring some likeness. Marilyn poses with the required languor. This costume is estimated £ 300K, for sale by Christie's in London on December 16, lot 10.
It consists of three elements in provocative colors to give an idea of luxury and even lust: a headdress, a bustier and a long skirt. The widely exhibited navel accentuates the resemblance to one of the most glamorous pictures of Theda Bara.
A few weeks later, the project of the greatest blockbuster of the time, which will be the Cleopatra of Liz Taylor, is announced. Marilyn unsuccessfully tried to use the Life photo to obtain the lead role.
These five seductresses deserve to be listed because they represent the history of the femme fatale: Lillian Russell, Theda Bara, Clara Bow, Jean Harlow and Marlene Dietrich. In 1917, the risque role of Theda Bara as Cleopatra in a soon censored and now lost movie had inflamed the minds of the early moviegoers. She was nicknamed the Vamp, a word taken from Vampyr which soon became widely used to refer to the sex bombs of the cinema.
Marilyn had fun on this project. It was not easy for a young modern woman to reincarnate Theda Bara forty years after her glory but the harem costume was enough to bring some likeness. Marilyn poses with the required languor. This costume is estimated £ 300K, for sale by Christie's in London on December 16, lot 10.
It consists of three elements in provocative colors to give an idea of luxury and even lust: a headdress, a bustier and a long skirt. The widely exhibited navel accentuates the resemblance to one of the most glamorous pictures of Theda Bara.
A few weeks later, the project of the greatest blockbuster of the time, which will be the Cleopatra of Liz Taylor, is announced. Marilyn unsuccessfully tried to use the Life photo to obtain the lead role.
1967-1968 ENGLISH LADIES SOON IN PACO RABANNE !
2008 SOLD 15 K£ INCLUDING PREMIUM
PRE SALE DISCUSSION
In Paris, we have regular sales of haute couture (top fashion). I remember seeing several times some metallic dresses by Paco Rabanne exhibited during Highlights of Drouot Montaigne, i.e. the exhibition which is held twice a year to submit works to be auctioned into next Parisian sales.
In London, it is less frequent, and Christie's endeavours to enter this market at the sale of a collection on October 30.
Paco Rabanne is highlighted in the press release of this sale, with three dresses.
For £ 6 K, a Miss may be offered by her boyfriend a white wedding dress, full length with leather plates bound by metal rings.
For £ 5 K, a fan may offer to his preferred Miss a dress made of transparent acrylic strips. Let us hope that his love will not put the dress into fire.
For £ 5 K, a Lady may show that she is still following fashion, with a classic dress made with riveted aluminum plates.
POST SALE COMMENT
The most typical of the style of Paco Rabanne was the aluminum dress, and moreover it is ancient: 1967-1968 (the disigner was born in 1934). It was sold £ 15 K including fees.
The wedding dress was not sold, and the transparent dress was not confirmed in the catalog.
In Paris, we have regular sales of haute couture (top fashion). I remember seeing several times some metallic dresses by Paco Rabanne exhibited during Highlights of Drouot Montaigne, i.e. the exhibition which is held twice a year to submit works to be auctioned into next Parisian sales.
In London, it is less frequent, and Christie's endeavours to enter this market at the sale of a collection on October 30.
Paco Rabanne is highlighted in the press release of this sale, with three dresses.
For £ 6 K, a Miss may be offered by her boyfriend a white wedding dress, full length with leather plates bound by metal rings.
For £ 5 K, a fan may offer to his preferred Miss a dress made of transparent acrylic strips. Let us hope that his love will not put the dress into fire.
For £ 5 K, a Lady may show that she is still following fashion, with a classic dress made with riveted aluminum plates.
POST SALE COMMENT
The most typical of the style of Paco Rabanne was the aluminum dress, and moreover it is ancient: 1967-1968 (the disigner was born in 1934). It was sold £ 15 K including fees.
The wedding dress was not sold, and the transparent dress was not confirmed in the catalog.
1972 Elvis's Jumpsuit
2021 SOLD for $ 510K before fees by GWS
Elvis Presley made a breakthrough in entertainment with his music and gesture, of course, but also for his stage worn attire. His supplier was the JC Costume Company operated in Hollywood by the designer Bill Belew, who made about 125 pieces for this special customer.
Elvis performed at Madison Square Garden from June 9 to 11, 1972. He used a jumpsuit and a cape made by Belew, decorated with eyelets. The collar is high behind the neck in the usual Presley fashion.
Both pieces were sold by GWS on September 4, 2021, the suit for $ 510K before fees at lot 3C and the cape for $ 300K before fees at lot 3D. The suit still has its tag from JC Costume sewn inside.
The peacock jumpsuit, also by Belew, was in 1974 a signature attire of Elvis. It was sold for $ 300K by Gotta Have It on August 6, 2008 and for $ 245K by Sotheby's on June 24, 2014, lot 111.
Elvis performed at Madison Square Garden from June 9 to 11, 1972. He used a jumpsuit and a cape made by Belew, decorated with eyelets. The collar is high behind the neck in the usual Presley fashion.
Both pieces were sold by GWS on September 4, 2021, the suit for $ 510K before fees at lot 3C and the cape for $ 300K before fees at lot 3D. The suit still has its tag from JC Costume sewn inside.
The peacock jumpsuit, also by Belew, was in 1974 a signature attire of Elvis. It was sold for $ 300K by Gotta Have It on August 6, 2008 and for $ 245K by Sotheby's on June 24, 2014, lot 111.
1974 A Peacock for Elvis
2008 SOLD 300 K$ including premium
2014 SOLD 245 K$ including premium
PRE 2014 SALE DISCUSSION
On May 11, 1974 in Las Vegas, in order to amaze his fans, Elvis Presley is singing on stage wearing a white jumpsuit embroidered with a peacock in rhinestones and gold lame. He paid this garment $ 10,000 to his usual supplier, the JC Costume Company operated in Hollywood by the designer Bill Belew.
This suit is the most spectacular among some 125 pieces of cloth made by Belew for Presley. It is decorated in front and behind with a large picture of a peacock. The tail feathers of these two birds go on each side down to the bottom of the legs. The collar is high behind the neck in the usual Presley fashion.
Presley loved this costume and used it often on stage in 1974. He takes it again in the following year for the cover photo of his album Promised Land. Belew had appreciated that the white background was particularly suitable in lighting effects and Elvis certainly felt an affinity with the proud bird.
The peacock jumpsuit has already been discussed in this column when it was sold for $ 300K including premium by Gotta Have It on 6 August 2008. It is illustrated on the post sale article shared by the Seattle Times. It is now estimated $ 200K for sale by Sotheby's in New York on June 24, lot 111.
POST 2014 SALE COMMENT
The amusing jumpsuit of Elvis Presley was sold for $ 245K including premium.
On May 11, 1974 in Las Vegas, in order to amaze his fans, Elvis Presley is singing on stage wearing a white jumpsuit embroidered with a peacock in rhinestones and gold lame. He paid this garment $ 10,000 to his usual supplier, the JC Costume Company operated in Hollywood by the designer Bill Belew.
This suit is the most spectacular among some 125 pieces of cloth made by Belew for Presley. It is decorated in front and behind with a large picture of a peacock. The tail feathers of these two birds go on each side down to the bottom of the legs. The collar is high behind the neck in the usual Presley fashion.
Presley loved this costume and used it often on stage in 1974. He takes it again in the following year for the cover photo of his album Promised Land. Belew had appreciated that the white background was particularly suitable in lighting effects and Elvis certainly felt an affinity with the proud bird.
The peacock jumpsuit has already been discussed in this column when it was sold for $ 300K including premium by Gotta Have It on 6 August 2008. It is illustrated on the post sale article shared by the Seattle Times. It is now estimated $ 200K for sale by Sotheby's in New York on June 24, lot 111.
POST 2014 SALE COMMENT
The amusing jumpsuit of Elvis Presley was sold for $ 245K including premium.
1977 Princess Leia Ceremonial Dress
2023 unsold by Propstore
Released in 1977, Star Wars was the eponymous movie of the franchised series. That original opus was later re-titled Episode IV / A New Hope.
The main female character is Princess Leia played by Carrie Fisher, both an Imperial senator and a secret rebel leader. The final sequence is a ceremony in the throne room by which this official personality awards medals to Luke Skywalker and Han Solo.
In this sequence the Princess wears a glamorous long white gown conceived by costume designer John Mollo, different in its romantic shape and intricate draping from the white garment with the big hood used in the rest of the film. The sequence was so short that only one example has been prepared. It was made by Bermans and Nathans of a shining cream lightweight silk fitted with a wide leather belt adorned by five wide aluminum plates.
The one of one garment was retrieved in a UK attic under dust and dirt by a crew member of Propstore and underwent an eight month cleaning by hand. A gauze was adhered to the fabric in the most fragile areas. It is screen-matched by wrinkles and folds
The dress still fitted with its original belt is estimated $ 1M for sale by Propstore on June 28, 2023, lot 404. Please watch the video shared by the auction house. It is the only Leia costume known to still exist from the first film.
Mollo was awarded an Oscar for Best Costume Design for Star Wars in 1978.
The main female character is Princess Leia played by Carrie Fisher, both an Imperial senator and a secret rebel leader. The final sequence is a ceremony in the throne room by which this official personality awards medals to Luke Skywalker and Han Solo.
In this sequence the Princess wears a glamorous long white gown conceived by costume designer John Mollo, different in its romantic shape and intricate draping from the white garment with the big hood used in the rest of the film. The sequence was so short that only one example has been prepared. It was made by Bermans and Nathans of a shining cream lightweight silk fitted with a wide leather belt adorned by five wide aluminum plates.
The one of one garment was retrieved in a UK attic under dust and dirt by a crew member of Propstore and underwent an eight month cleaning by hand. A gauze was adhered to the fabric in the most fragile areas. It is screen-matched by wrinkles and folds
The dress still fitted with its original belt is estimated $ 1M for sale by Propstore on June 28, 2023, lot 404. Please watch the video shared by the auction house. It is the only Leia costume known to still exist from the first film.
Mollo was awarded an Oscar for Best Costume Design for Star Wars in 1978.
1981 The First Gown of Princess Diana
2010 SOLD 192 K£ including premium
All little girls in the world dream of being dressed as princesses. In 1981, the dream becomes a reality for Diana, 19, the daughter of the 8th Earl Spencer promised to become Princess of Wales. She selected for her clothes the fashion house of David and Elizabeth Emanuel.
Already eagerly awaited by the press, Diana made her first public appearance in a charity ball, where her taffeta gown created a sensation. The Royals, offended by the daring decolletage and surprised at the black clothing, are making an unexpected and unintended entry into the world of the fashion magazines.
One of the many photos of Diana wearing this dress is shared by the Daily Mail announcing the auction of this piece. The published estimate is 50 K £ (I suppose that it is the high estimate, as it is almost always the case when the information is provided by a magazine). In this article, Mrs. Emanuel notes the role of her creations in the transformation of her shy young customer into a fashion icon.
Three months later, the glory is reaching the two young designers, then under the age of thirty. They sign the wedding dress of their friend, the new princess of Wales, seen by 700 million viewers.
The sale of the black dress is held on June 8 by Kerry Taylor, a London auctioneer who works in cooperation with Sotheby's. Her auction house specializing in haute couture sold in December 2009 a cocktail dress worn by Audrey Hepburn at 60 K £ including premium.
POST SALE COMMENT
This dress is an important milestone in the history of fashion. It was sold £ 192 K including premium.
A video shared by BBC News shows Kerry Taylor lowering her hammer at £ 160 K.
Already eagerly awaited by the press, Diana made her first public appearance in a charity ball, where her taffeta gown created a sensation. The Royals, offended by the daring decolletage and surprised at the black clothing, are making an unexpected and unintended entry into the world of the fashion magazines.
One of the many photos of Diana wearing this dress is shared by the Daily Mail announcing the auction of this piece. The published estimate is 50 K £ (I suppose that it is the high estimate, as it is almost always the case when the information is provided by a magazine). In this article, Mrs. Emanuel notes the role of her creations in the transformation of her shy young customer into a fashion icon.
Three months later, the glory is reaching the two young designers, then under the age of thirty. They sign the wedding dress of their friend, the new princess of Wales, seen by 700 million viewers.
The sale of the black dress is held on June 8 by Kerry Taylor, a London auctioneer who works in cooperation with Sotheby's. Her auction house specializing in haute couture sold in December 2009 a cocktail dress worn by Audrey Hepburn at 60 K £ including premium.
POST SALE COMMENT
This dress is an important milestone in the history of fashion. It was sold £ 192 K including premium.
A video shared by BBC News shows Kerry Taylor lowering her hammer at £ 160 K.
>1981 Birkin Bags
2011 SOLD 203 K$ including premium
Hermès, designer and manufacturer of luxury goods, generates nearly half its sales in the luggage and handbag.
The Birkin bag is a prestigious model, easily recognizable, available in several sizes and especially in a wide range of leathers and colors. The base price is in the region of € 5000 but some copies studded with diamonds or precious metals can exceed € 100,000. (I have not done an analysis of the catalog: For more details, refer to the information provided by the manufacturer).
It was designed jointly by Hermès and Jane Birkin in 1981, after a legendary encounter on an airplane from Paris to London. Jane was vigorously protesting against the cumbersome feature of her personal bag without guessing that her neighbor was the chief executive of Hermès.
On June 18, 2007, a used bag belonging to Jane was sold by her at Artcurial in a charity auction for € 74K including premium.
The suite of Birkin bags for sale by Heritage in Dallas on December 6 is spectacular. No less than ten Birkin bags are expected in excess of $ 30K each, and less expensive models are also available.
The most expensive, estimated $ 80K, is a 30 cm red model in crocodile embellished with gold and diamond.
The most amazing, estimated $ 60K, has the same size but in Himalayan crocodile enhanced with palladium.
These two prestigious specimens are in pristine condition.
POST SALE COMMENT
This sale was exceptional in its class: Seven Birkin bags have exceeded $ 50K.
The highest price was obtained on the star lot of the sale, the red bag, sold for $ 203K including premium.
The other lot mentioned in my article, estimated $ 60K, was sold $ 80K including premium.
The Birkin bag is a prestigious model, easily recognizable, available in several sizes and especially in a wide range of leathers and colors. The base price is in the region of € 5000 but some copies studded with diamonds or precious metals can exceed € 100,000. (I have not done an analysis of the catalog: For more details, refer to the information provided by the manufacturer).
It was designed jointly by Hermès and Jane Birkin in 1981, after a legendary encounter on an airplane from Paris to London. Jane was vigorously protesting against the cumbersome feature of her personal bag without guessing that her neighbor was the chief executive of Hermès.
On June 18, 2007, a used bag belonging to Jane was sold by her at Artcurial in a charity auction for € 74K including premium.
The suite of Birkin bags for sale by Heritage in Dallas on December 6 is spectacular. No less than ten Birkin bags are expected in excess of $ 30K each, and less expensive models are also available.
The most expensive, estimated $ 80K, is a 30 cm red model in crocodile embellished with gold and diamond.
The most amazing, estimated $ 60K, has the same size but in Himalayan crocodile enhanced with palladium.
These two prestigious specimens are in pristine condition.
POST SALE COMMENT
This sale was exceptional in its class: Seven Birkin bags have exceeded $ 50K.
The highest price was obtained on the star lot of the sale, the red bag, sold for $ 203K including premium.
The other lot mentioned in my article, estimated $ 60K, was sold $ 80K including premium.
1985 The Princess of Rock and Roll
2013 SOLD 240 K£ including premium
2019 UNSOLD
PRE 2019 SALE DISCUSSION
Lady Diana marries Prince Charles in 1981. She is 20 years old and photogenic. She pays great attention that her clothing is consistent with her commitments, and her wardrobe is of a great variety. Her style of modern young woman pleases the public.
She likes to define her dresses. At the shop of Victor Edelstein, she sees a long dress in velvet with bare shoulders and commissions the same model in midnight blue which is one of her favorite colors.
In 1985 the Prince and Princess of Wales make a four-day official visit to the United States, where they are received at the White House by the President and Mrs. Reagan. At the State dinner, she wears for the first time the Edelstein dress, with satin gloves and a choker necklace.
A big surprise for the guests had been prepared by Nancy Reagan at the request of the princess : at midnight John Travolta invites Diana to dance rock and roll. For twenty minutes, on a music extracted from Grease and from Saturday Night Fever, Diana becomes with great ease a disco icon. Beautifully twirling in that dance, her gown is now identified as the Travolta dress. The image shared by Wikimedia is in the public domain because of the official nature of this gala.
The Princess of Wales wears this dress again on five occasions, from 1986 to 1991. On June 25, 1997, it was included in a charity auction organized by Christie's in New York, for which Lady Diana herself chose in her collection 79 evening and cocktail dresses. This event for the benefit of organizations fighting AIDS and cancer fetched $ 2.5M in the sale of the luxurious catalog and exhibition tickets, plus the $ 3,3M auction product led by the $ 225K of the Travolta. dress.
This dress passed at Waddington's in June 2011. It was sold for £ 240K including premium by Kerry Taylor on March 19, 2013. I had discussed it in this column before these sales. It is estimated £ 250K for sale by Kerry Taylor in London on December 9, lot 237.
Lady Diana marries Prince Charles in 1981. She is 20 years old and photogenic. She pays great attention that her clothing is consistent with her commitments, and her wardrobe is of a great variety. Her style of modern young woman pleases the public.
She likes to define her dresses. At the shop of Victor Edelstein, she sees a long dress in velvet with bare shoulders and commissions the same model in midnight blue which is one of her favorite colors.
In 1985 the Prince and Princess of Wales make a four-day official visit to the United States, where they are received at the White House by the President and Mrs. Reagan. At the State dinner, she wears for the first time the Edelstein dress, with satin gloves and a choker necklace.
A big surprise for the guests had been prepared by Nancy Reagan at the request of the princess : at midnight John Travolta invites Diana to dance rock and roll. For twenty minutes, on a music extracted from Grease and from Saturday Night Fever, Diana becomes with great ease a disco icon. Beautifully twirling in that dance, her gown is now identified as the Travolta dress. The image shared by Wikimedia is in the public domain because of the official nature of this gala.
The Princess of Wales wears this dress again on five occasions, from 1986 to 1991. On June 25, 1997, it was included in a charity auction organized by Christie's in New York, for which Lady Diana herself chose in her collection 79 evening and cocktail dresses. This event for the benefit of organizations fighting AIDS and cancer fetched $ 2.5M in the sale of the luxurious catalog and exhibition tickets, plus the $ 3,3M auction product led by the $ 225K of the Travolta. dress.
This dress passed at Waddington's in June 2011. It was sold for £ 240K including premium by Kerry Taylor on March 19, 2013. I had discussed it in this column before these sales. It is estimated £ 250K for sale by Kerry Taylor in London on December 9, lot 237.
1989 Diana's Ball Dress by Edelstein
2023 SOLD for $ 600K by Sotheby's
A ball dress made in 1989 for Diana by Edelstein was sold for $ 600K by Sotheby's on January 27, 2023, lot 14.
1999 Corset by Leane and McQueen
2017 SOLD for $ 810K by Sotheby's
Clothing has the social role of drawing attention to the person wearing it. The creativity of Alexander McQueen is unlimited. It does not matter that his pieces are unusable apart from the theatrical stagings at the fashion shows. In 1995 the designer attracts controversy by exhibiting bumster trousers that are worn very low to denude the top of the buttocks.
For the jewelry that accompanies the gowns, McQueen works with Shaun Leane. On December 4, 2017, Sotheby's in association with Kerry Taylor auctioned a collection of items made for McQueen by Leane and offered from his personal archives. They are discussed by Shaun Leane himself in the video shared by the auction house.
In 1997 McQueen dressed Björk for the preparation of her album titled Homogenic. She wears on the cover a collar made by Leane in circles of silver plated brass imitating the ornaments of the Burmese women-giraffes. This jewel was sold for $ 244K, lot 33.
In a similar inspiration, lot 12 also estimated $ 250K turns a woman into a surrealist artefact. This aluminum corset created by Leane for McQueen in 1998 is composed of the spine in its whole length along with its complete ribcage. The video demonstrates very briefly at 1:14 how to wear it elegantly over a glittery black garment.
This skeleton corset was sold for $ 710K.
At the risk of erasing the femininity McQueen required Leane to create in his signature style a corset made after a concrete molding of the body of the model Laura Morgan from top of neck down to the hips. This piece made of 97 aluminum coils is signed by both McQueen and Leane and dated 1999. It was sold for $ 810K from a lower estimate of $ 250K by Sotheby's on December 4, 2017, lot 24.
For the jewelry that accompanies the gowns, McQueen works with Shaun Leane. On December 4, 2017, Sotheby's in association with Kerry Taylor auctioned a collection of items made for McQueen by Leane and offered from his personal archives. They are discussed by Shaun Leane himself in the video shared by the auction house.
In 1997 McQueen dressed Björk for the preparation of her album titled Homogenic. She wears on the cover a collar made by Leane in circles of silver plated brass imitating the ornaments of the Burmese women-giraffes. This jewel was sold for $ 244K, lot 33.
In a similar inspiration, lot 12 also estimated $ 250K turns a woman into a surrealist artefact. This aluminum corset created by Leane for McQueen in 1998 is composed of the spine in its whole length along with its complete ribcage. The video demonstrates very briefly at 1:14 how to wear it elegantly over a glittery black garment.
This skeleton corset was sold for $ 710K.
At the risk of erasing the femininity McQueen required Leane to create in his signature style a corset made after a concrete molding of the body of the model Laura Morgan from top of neck down to the hips. This piece made of 97 aluminum coils is signed by both McQueen and Leane and dated 1999. It was sold for $ 810K from a lower estimate of $ 250K by Sotheby's on December 4, 2017, lot 24.
2002 THE FASHION FOR £ 30
2011 SOLD 78 K£ INCLUDING PREMIUM
PRE SALE DISCUSSION
This story can only happen in England. Our austere republics are not interested enough in the young people. Yet it is at the age when they are still hunted by Cupid that fashion plays its actual seductive role.
Begin by the end. On 16 November 2010, the royal family announced the wedding of Prince William with KateMiddleton. This affair once passionated Charlotte Todd, a young designer. She rushed into her wardrobe where shefound, forgotten for nearly ten years, a short dress that could well become a cult object of a forthcoming Englishreign.
In 2002, Charlotte was 23. A fundraising show was held at her university on the theme of fashion. She had invested£ 30 for sewing the dress as part of a student project well named "the Art of Seduction".
This slip dress, in transparent silk with two narrow wool stripes at top and bottom, valued the sex appeal of theyoung Kate, aged 19, selected as a model. William, amazed, saw his future wife through the garment. The article with pretty pictures shared by The Daily Mail was published in November 2010, just days after the wedding announcement.
The dress will be sold in London on March 17, six weeks before the wedding, by Kerry Taylor. It is estimated £ 8K. The choice of this auction house specializing in fashion is a good idea. We keep in mind that the dress worn by the future Lady Diana in her first official ball was sold by them. Find this story in the archives of this group.
The young English people have every reason to want to have fun.
POST SALE COMMENT
It was a great stunt for the young designer Charlotte Todd. This dress which has all the features tobecome a fetish object was sold £ 65K before fees, 78K including premium.
This story can only happen in England. Our austere republics are not interested enough in the young people. Yet it is at the age when they are still hunted by Cupid that fashion plays its actual seductive role.
Begin by the end. On 16 November 2010, the royal family announced the wedding of Prince William with KateMiddleton. This affair once passionated Charlotte Todd, a young designer. She rushed into her wardrobe where shefound, forgotten for nearly ten years, a short dress that could well become a cult object of a forthcoming Englishreign.
In 2002, Charlotte was 23. A fundraising show was held at her university on the theme of fashion. She had invested£ 30 for sewing the dress as part of a student project well named "the Art of Seduction".
This slip dress, in transparent silk with two narrow wool stripes at top and bottom, valued the sex appeal of theyoung Kate, aged 19, selected as a model. William, amazed, saw his future wife through the garment. The article with pretty pictures shared by The Daily Mail was published in November 2010, just days after the wedding announcement.
The dress will be sold in London on March 17, six weeks before the wedding, by Kerry Taylor. It is estimated £ 8K. The choice of this auction house specializing in fashion is a good idea. We keep in mind that the dress worn by the future Lady Diana in her first official ball was sold by them. Find this story in the archives of this group.
The young English people have every reason to want to have fun.
POST SALE COMMENT
It was a great stunt for the young designer Charlotte Todd. This dress which has all the features tobecome a fetish object was sold £ 65K before fees, 78K including premium.
2005 DUNHILL AND NAMIKI WRITE THE HISTORY OF LUXURY
2009 SOLD 49 K$ INCLUDING PREMIUM
PRE SALE DISCUSSION
Dunhill is a British specialist of luxury products for men, including pens.
Namiki is a company founded in Japan in 1918 for the production of pens, which was very active in obtaining contacts. In 1928, Dunhill was one of their retailers, and very soon joint productions were managed by the two companies as Dunhill-Namiki brand. Although the company Namiki has changed its name to Pilot Pen Co, the brand name remained.
In 2005, the two companies celebrated the seventy-fifth anniversary of their partnership. Then they produced the Dunhill-Namiki Sakura Rose pen, a copy of which is for sale on February 17 at Bonhams and Butterfields in Los Angeles.
This model made in maki-e Japanese lacquer (the specialty of Namiki) combines with sophistication the symbols of both countries. The cap is decorated with pink cherry blossoms, and the body with gold roses. It was manufactured in 25 copies.
This exquisite object is estimated $ 50 K.
POST SALE COMMENT
Sold: K $ 40 before fees. This is below the low estimate.
Dunhill is a British specialist of luxury products for men, including pens.
Namiki is a company founded in Japan in 1918 for the production of pens, which was very active in obtaining contacts. In 1928, Dunhill was one of their retailers, and very soon joint productions were managed by the two companies as Dunhill-Namiki brand. Although the company Namiki has changed its name to Pilot Pen Co, the brand name remained.
In 2005, the two companies celebrated the seventy-fifth anniversary of their partnership. Then they produced the Dunhill-Namiki Sakura Rose pen, a copy of which is for sale on February 17 at Bonhams and Butterfields in Los Angeles.
This model made in maki-e Japanese lacquer (the specialty of Namiki) combines with sophistication the symbols of both countries. The cap is decorated with pink cherry blossoms, and the body with gold roses. It was manufactured in 25 copies.
This exquisite object is estimated $ 50 K.
POST SALE COMMENT
Sold: K $ 40 before fees. This is below the low estimate.
2007 A KELLY BAG FOR princesse stéphanie
2017 SOLD for € 104k including premium
A presentation Kelly bag made by Hermès in 2007 will be sold by Artcurial in Monaco (Monte-Carlo) on July 19, lot 1055estimated € 80K. It has been previously sold twice by the same auction house. I narrated it as follows in 2008 and 2014 :
In 1956 the celebrity magazines are passionate about the engagement and wedding of the Prince de Monaco with the actress Grace Kelly. A photo published by Life pleases the readers. The bride, who had not yet announced that she is pregnant, protects herself behind a large handbag with high belts from a modelcreated by Hermès in 1935.
The princely family enjoyed the name of Kelly bag used from then by Hermès and Princesse Grace herself collected the Kelly model.
In 2007, on the occasion of an exhibition in honor of Grace, Hermès created a unique piece that was presented to Princesse Stéphanie. This blue Kelly bag is adorned with a large silkscreen copying a 1954 lovely black and white photo of the actress.
Stéphanie sold this bag to benefit her Fight Aids Monaco association in an auction organized by Artcurial in Paris on June 2, 2008. This charity lot exempted from buyer's premium was sold for € 52K. Here is the release issued by Artcurial before the sale.
Afterward the bag was sold by Artcurial in Monaco for € 74K including premium in July 2014. It was illustrated on the pre-sale release issued by FR3 Côte d'Azur.
The 2008 release linked above reminded that the Hermès Birkin bag of Jane Birkin fetched € 60K in 2007 at auction as a charity for the Fédération Internationale des Droits de l'Homme.
In 1956 the celebrity magazines are passionate about the engagement and wedding of the Prince de Monaco with the actress Grace Kelly. A photo published by Life pleases the readers. The bride, who had not yet announced that she is pregnant, protects herself behind a large handbag with high belts from a modelcreated by Hermès in 1935.
The princely family enjoyed the name of Kelly bag used from then by Hermès and Princesse Grace herself collected the Kelly model.
In 2007, on the occasion of an exhibition in honor of Grace, Hermès created a unique piece that was presented to Princesse Stéphanie. This blue Kelly bag is adorned with a large silkscreen copying a 1954 lovely black and white photo of the actress.
Stéphanie sold this bag to benefit her Fight Aids Monaco association in an auction organized by Artcurial in Paris on June 2, 2008. This charity lot exempted from buyer's premium was sold for € 52K. Here is the release issued by Artcurial before the sale.
Afterward the bag was sold by Artcurial in Monaco for € 74K including premium in July 2014. It was illustrated on the pre-sale release issued by FR3 Côte d'Azur.
The 2008 release linked above reminded that the Hermès Birkin bag of Jane Birkin fetched € 60K in 2007 at auction as a charity for the Fédération Internationale des Droits de l'Homme.
2007 SALEM WITCHES REVISITED BY MCQUEEN
2010 UNSOLD
PRE SALE DISCUSSION
2010 will be remembered as the year of the death of Lee Alexander McQueen. This gay knew how to dress women. Since he created his own design house, he bumped the world of fashion by the dynamism of his creations and the originality of his shows. His work is luxurious and shimmering.
McQueen liked to refer to a theme to design his dresses. His collection of ready to wear of fall 2007 was inspired by the old story of the witches of Salem.
Two of these creations are for sale by Bonhams in Knightsbridge on June 30. The most valued, entirely covered with gold sequins, is estimated £ 12K.
The other, estimated £ 10 K, is equally desirable. This dress with peacock feathers and gold sequins is considered one of the sexiest among the creations of McQueen. The skirt is in silk tulle.
Are you interested, ladies? These clothes are size 40. They are marked Made in Italy and accompanied by a bag of spare sequins.
2010 will be remembered as the year of the death of Lee Alexander McQueen. This gay knew how to dress women. Since he created his own design house, he bumped the world of fashion by the dynamism of his creations and the originality of his shows. His work is luxurious and shimmering.
McQueen liked to refer to a theme to design his dresses. His collection of ready to wear of fall 2007 was inspired by the old story of the witches of Salem.
Two of these creations are for sale by Bonhams in Knightsbridge on June 30. The most valued, entirely covered with gold sequins, is estimated £ 12K.
The other, estimated £ 10 K, is equally desirable. This dress with peacock feathers and gold sequins is considered one of the sexiest among the creations of McQueen. The skirt is in silk tulle.
Are you interested, ladies? These clothes are size 40. They are marked Made in Italy and accompanied by a bag of spare sequins.
2008 BOHEME BY MONTBLANC
2009 UNSOLD
PRE SALE DISCUSSION
The fountain pen is an obsolete object, as regards to its possible use. Top brands like Montblanc continue this product in a deluxe version which make mostly considered as collectibles.
All these small businesses, some of which are centenarian, are now belonging to the large groups of the luxury industry. So Montblanc, which is German, is part of the Richemont group.
The Bohème series includes today the Montblanc pens in precious metals. Some of them are unique or made in very limited quantities, in solid gold set with over a thousand diamonds.
On July 28 in Monaco, Tajan is selling the Bohème Papillon pen that belonged to Ted Lapidus. Its feature is a stylized drawing of two butterflies made with yellow sapphires. This model was announced by the press in the first quarter of 2008 (the designer died in December of that year). To my taste, the Bohème Papillon is less nice with its skeleton body than the Bohème Royal which is entirely set with diamonds.
The lower estimate is only 50 K€, therefore well below the rates of the time of launch. That makes sense because the price of a contemporary lot at auction never reaches the price of the brand new item. The clientele is not the same. The tight estimate (10 K € difference only between the low estimate and high estimate) indicates that the sale of that lot will be difficult.
POST SALE COMMENT
I considered when preparing this article that the sale of this Bohème pen would be difficult. Actually it is not shown in the post sale press release.
From the same collection, a Montblanc has been sold 14.7 K € premium included on a low estimate of 5 K €. It comes from an edition of 2007 in 76 copies as a tribute to Miro. The market did not consider as important that it was presented without its original box.
The fountain pen is an obsolete object, as regards to its possible use. Top brands like Montblanc continue this product in a deluxe version which make mostly considered as collectibles.
All these small businesses, some of which are centenarian, are now belonging to the large groups of the luxury industry. So Montblanc, which is German, is part of the Richemont group.
The Bohème series includes today the Montblanc pens in precious metals. Some of them are unique or made in very limited quantities, in solid gold set with over a thousand diamonds.
On July 28 in Monaco, Tajan is selling the Bohème Papillon pen that belonged to Ted Lapidus. Its feature is a stylized drawing of two butterflies made with yellow sapphires. This model was announced by the press in the first quarter of 2008 (the designer died in December of that year). To my taste, the Bohème Papillon is less nice with its skeleton body than the Bohème Royal which is entirely set with diamonds.
The lower estimate is only 50 K€, therefore well below the rates of the time of launch. That makes sense because the price of a contemporary lot at auction never reaches the price of the brand new item. The clientele is not the same. The tight estimate (10 K € difference only between the low estimate and high estimate) indicates that the sale of that lot will be difficult.
POST SALE COMMENT
I considered when preparing this article that the sale of this Bohème pen would be difficult. Actually it is not shown in the post sale press release.
From the same collection, a Montblanc has been sold 14.7 K € premium included on a low estimate of 5 K €. It comes from an edition of 2007 in 76 copies as a tribute to Miro. The market did not consider as important that it was presented without its original box.
2010 The Armor of Daphne Guinness
2017 SOLD for $ 310K including premium
British eccentricity is limitless. Daphne Guinness was born under favorable social auspices, descending from both the family of Irish brewers and one of the Mitford sisters. Having entered the world of fashion with her childhood friend Isabella Blow who launched the career of Alexander McQueen, she is regularly nominated in the best dressed lists. She claims to be shy and poetic, hidden behind her look in the manner of punks.
Her actions are often spectacular. In 2010, three years after Blow's suicide, she bought the entire wardrobe of her friend while it was prepared for an auction.
One day Daphne Guinness is threatened with a jostling in an exhibition which she is visiting with Alexander McQueen and Shaun Leane. Resurfacing the quest for protection from her childhood, she tells Leane : "I need armor. I need you to protect me. I need a glove !".
The invitation was clever. Leane had built for McQueen the coiled corsets designed on the closest to the body. Twenty-one fitting sessions are required for Leane to adjust the glove of white gold mesh to Guinness's hand. The work is close to completion in 2010 at the time of McQueen's suicide. The dress imagined by the designer to accompany the glove will never be started. Leane finishes the glove with a pavement of 4,290 diamonds. As a whole the work had lasted four years.
This one-of-a-kind piece named Contra Mundum is a synthesis of armor and fashion, adorned on its removable cuff with a flight of grouped birds aimed to discourage predators. The set is estimated $ 300K for sale by Sotheby's in New York on December 4, lot 43.
Her actions are often spectacular. In 2010, three years after Blow's suicide, she bought the entire wardrobe of her friend while it was prepared for an auction.
One day Daphne Guinness is threatened with a jostling in an exhibition which she is visiting with Alexander McQueen and Shaun Leane. Resurfacing the quest for protection from her childhood, she tells Leane : "I need armor. I need you to protect me. I need a glove !".
The invitation was clever. Leane had built for McQueen the coiled corsets designed on the closest to the body. Twenty-one fitting sessions are required for Leane to adjust the glove of white gold mesh to Guinness's hand. The work is close to completion in 2010 at the time of McQueen's suicide. The dress imagined by the designer to accompany the glove will never be started. Leane finishes the glove with a pavement of 4,290 diamonds. As a whole the work had lasted four years.
This one-of-a-kind piece named Contra Mundum is a synthesis of armor and fashion, adorned on its removable cuff with a flight of grouped birds aimed to discourage predators. The set is estimated $ 300K for sale by Sotheby's in New York on December 4, lot 43.
nilo or poro
2014 sold for $ 185K including premium
The use of crocodile or alligator skins for purses is not a novelty. Within its Birkin product line created in 1981, Hermès did however develop a new art.
Two breeds of crocodiles are competing for this extreme luxury on which the CITES exercise their scrupulous vigilance. The Poro (porosus) is Australian and Nilo (niloticus) is African as its name refers.
Their artistic use is different. The Poro offers several dimensions of scales allowing irregular patterns. The Nilo, more regular, supports exquisite dyeing shades that match perfectly with the white precious metals of the plaques and locks. The presence or absence of dots in the center of the scale also guides the designer in optimizing the use of this material.
Only the result of the craft is important, and none of these two variants is dominant over the other.
On December 6, 2011, Heritage sold for $ 203K including premium a shiny red 30cm Poro equipped in white gold and diamonds. I also discussed in that sale a bag of the same size in "Himalayan crocodile", sold for $ 80K including premium.
There are obviously no crocodiles in the Himalayas. This wording applies to a very clear dyeing, very difficult to realize but providing an immaculate effect. The bag sold in 2011 has the characteristics of a Nilo (although this information is not indicated in the catalog) and is equipped in palladium without diamonds.
On September 23 in Beverly Hills, Heritage sells a 30 cm Birkin, undated in the catalog, in matte Himalayan Nilo, lot 58116estimated $ 150K. This handbag equipped with white gold and diamonds is in pristine condition as brand new, having even kept its original plastic covers.
Two breeds of crocodiles are competing for this extreme luxury on which the CITES exercise their scrupulous vigilance. The Poro (porosus) is Australian and Nilo (niloticus) is African as its name refers.
Their artistic use is different. The Poro offers several dimensions of scales allowing irregular patterns. The Nilo, more regular, supports exquisite dyeing shades that match perfectly with the white precious metals of the plaques and locks. The presence or absence of dots in the center of the scale also guides the designer in optimizing the use of this material.
Only the result of the craft is important, and none of these two variants is dominant over the other.
On December 6, 2011, Heritage sold for $ 203K including premium a shiny red 30cm Poro equipped in white gold and diamonds. I also discussed in that sale a bag of the same size in "Himalayan crocodile", sold for $ 80K including premium.
There are obviously no crocodiles in the Himalayas. This wording applies to a very clear dyeing, very difficult to realize but providing an immaculate effect. The bag sold in 2011 has the characteristics of a Nilo (although this information is not indicated in the catalog) and is equipped in palladium without diamonds.
On September 23 in Beverly Hills, Heritage sells a 30 cm Birkin, undated in the catalog, in matte Himalayan Nilo, lot 58116estimated $ 150K. This handbag equipped with white gold and diamonds is in pristine condition as brand new, having even kept its original plastic covers.
2019 The Bride wore Yellow
2019 unsold
Born just before the Cultural Revolution, Guo Pei is passionate about sewing and embroidery, without being discouraged by the destruction of her grandmother's wardrobe. Luxury is slowly being readmitted in China. She graduates in 1986 at the Beijing School of Industrial Fashion Design, works for several years for other designers and starts her own business. She opens several branches including one in Rue Saint-Honoré and currently employs about 500 people.
Guo Pei creates celebration gowns whose purpose is daydream, on themes that include Asian fairy tales and traditions. She reaches an international media fame in 2015 when Rihanna enters a gala with a bright yellow dress weighing 25 Kg whose train is carried by three assistants.
The most spectacular materials are used by the seamstress such as silk, fur or Swarovski crystals. Her preference is for yellow gold, a color of clothing that had been reserved for the emperor under the Qing.
On October 29 in London, Sotheby's sells a bridal dress in Asian style, lot 15 estimated £ 500K, created in cooperation with the auction house. This garment has the ample shape of a traditional Singapore costume and is decorated with the Chinese auspices of wealth and happiness used for weddings, such as double fish and peonies without forgetting the celestial battle of dragon and phoenix.
With a 150 cm overall height, this piece is fully embroidered with gold thread on a sheepskin. The use of 30 techniques of stitch made it possible to create a three-dimensional texture with a very high density of patterns.
Please watch the short video tweeted by Bloomberg.
Guo Pei creates celebration gowns whose purpose is daydream, on themes that include Asian fairy tales and traditions. She reaches an international media fame in 2015 when Rihanna enters a gala with a bright yellow dress weighing 25 Kg whose train is carried by three assistants.
The most spectacular materials are used by the seamstress such as silk, fur or Swarovski crystals. Her preference is for yellow gold, a color of clothing that had been reserved for the emperor under the Qing.
On October 29 in London, Sotheby's sells a bridal dress in Asian style, lot 15 estimated £ 500K, created in cooperation with the auction house. This garment has the ample shape of a traditional Singapore costume and is decorated with the Chinese auspices of wealth and happiness used for weddings, such as double fish and peonies without forgetting the celestial battle of dragon and phoenix.
With a 150 cm overall height, this piece is fully embroidered with gold thread on a sheepskin. The use of 30 techniques of stitch made it possible to create a three-dimensional texture with a very high density of patterns.
Please watch the short video tweeted by Bloomberg.
2021 Hermès Himalaya Handbag
2021 SOLD for HK$ 4M by Christie's
In 1956 the celebrity magazines are passionate about the engagement and wedding of the Prince de Monaco with the actress Grace Kelly. A photo published by Life pleases the readers. The bride, who had not yet announced that she is pregnant, protects herself behind a large handbag with high belts from a model created by Hermès in 1935. The princely family enjoyed the name of Kelly bag used from then by Hermès. Princesse Grace collected her namesake model.
The Birkin handbag was designed jointly by Hermès and Jane Birkin in 1981, after a legendary encounter on an airplane from Paris to London. Jane was vigorously protesting against the cumbersome feature of her personal bag without guessing that her neighbor was the chief executive of Hermès.
The use of crocodile or alligator skins for purses is not a novelty. Within its Kelly and Birkin product lines, Hermès did however develop a new art.
Two breeds of crocodiles are competing for this top luxury on which the CITES exercise their scrupulous vigilance. The Poro (porosus) is Australian and Nilo (niloticus) is African as its name refers.
Their artistic use is different. The Poro offers several dimensions of scales allowing irregular patterns. The Nilo, more regular, supports exquisite dyeing shades that match perfectly with the white precious metals of the plaques and locks. The presence or absence of dots in the center of the scale also guides the designer in optimizing the use of this material.
A matte white Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Kelly 28 cm wide handbag made in 2021 with 18 carat white gold and set with 229 diamonds fir an overall 9.2 carats was sold for HK $ 4M from a lower estimate of HK $ 1.8M by Christie's on November 26, 2021, lot 3844.
There are obviously no crocodiles in the Himalayas. This wording applies to a very clear dyeing, very difficult to realize but providing an immaculate effect. The Himalaya Birkin was released from 2008 and the Himalaya Kelly from 2013. An earlier Hermès Celadon Himalaya was produced from 1994 to 2008.
The Birkin handbag was designed jointly by Hermès and Jane Birkin in 1981, after a legendary encounter on an airplane from Paris to London. Jane was vigorously protesting against the cumbersome feature of her personal bag without guessing that her neighbor was the chief executive of Hermès.
The use of crocodile or alligator skins for purses is not a novelty. Within its Kelly and Birkin product lines, Hermès did however develop a new art.
Two breeds of crocodiles are competing for this top luxury on which the CITES exercise their scrupulous vigilance. The Poro (porosus) is Australian and Nilo (niloticus) is African as its name refers.
Their artistic use is different. The Poro offers several dimensions of scales allowing irregular patterns. The Nilo, more regular, supports exquisite dyeing shades that match perfectly with the white precious metals of the plaques and locks. The presence or absence of dots in the center of the scale also guides the designer in optimizing the use of this material.
A matte white Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Kelly 28 cm wide handbag made in 2021 with 18 carat white gold and set with 229 diamonds fir an overall 9.2 carats was sold for HK $ 4M from a lower estimate of HK $ 1.8M by Christie's on November 26, 2021, lot 3844.
There are obviously no crocodiles in the Himalayas. This wording applies to a very clear dyeing, very difficult to realize but providing an immaculate effect. The Himalaya Birkin was released from 2008 and the Himalaya Kelly from 2013. An earlier Hermès Celadon Himalaya was produced from 1994 to 2008.
